Tuesday

The Great Wildebeest Migration



They say this migration is one of the 7 new Wonders of the World. For now, I can merely rave about the raw power I witnessed, as thousands of wildebeest stampeded through the Mara River. Nothing quite prepares you for this visual spectacle. 



The stage on which this show is set is loosely termed the Mara Ecosystem, pretty much defined by the dominant migration. The principle players are the (approx) 1.5 - 2 million wildebeest, supporting roles from 350,000 gazelles and about 200,000 zebras. These wildebeest are predated upon by the lions, hyenas, leopards, cheetahs who await the annual coming of the migration with eager anticipation


Thousands and thousands of wildebeest scattered across the plains, muster up the courage and slowly form lines as they channel towards the imminent river crossing points. These crossings are the most dangerous stages for the migrating wildebeest, with the river current often sweeping the animals downriver and into the opportunistic jowls of the waiting crocodiles.



Now is as good as any a time to introduce our driver and guide, Sammy boy! He has been leading the Park Safaris for over 20 years  He was our go-to safari man for his encyclopaedic knowledge, his eye for spotting game and his wealth of anecdotes about each and every park in Kenya. He was a tall man, with a sunny smile and a great sense of humour :D  Suddenly the now-familiar ringtone of Sammy’s phone crackles with static, within seconds Sam accelerates across the plains, bouncing up and down over the land. We had no idea what was going on. It turned out that the wildebeest were clustered around the river’s cliff side edge, and primed to cross. The walkie talkies were ablaze with excited chatter, Sam, unlatched the roof of our jeep so that we had an unobstructed view of the grasslands around us, we exchange bemused looks amongst ourselves, listening to Sammy’s Yoda-like responses :D


After a few minutes, we caught sight of the flowing muddy waters of the river – perhaps 15 metres wide at that point. The river was flanked either side by crumbling dusty cliffs. Amongst the trees that populated the riverbank, 8-10 jeeps and minibuses jostled for prime viewing points on the river’s edge. Sammy expertly weaved his way through a great vantage point. He turned the engine off, and we gazed at a group of wildebeest huddled around the cliff edge towards our right side – impatiently shoving and pushing each other. The wildebeest at the front peered precariously over the edge to the swirling torrent beneath. Crocodiles floated under the surface, vultures circled above opportunistically and downstream the chewed carcasses of the dead wildebeest had been washed ashore. The jungle flies were all around us buzzing most irritated

As the minutes passed, more and more wildebeest arrived at the cliff top, with the group at the front struggling to resist the relentless pushing from behind. And then suddenly there was a burst of activity. The first wildebeest could resist no more, and was pushed over the edge, beyond the point of no return. Plumes of dust shot into the air, as the wildebeest accelerated down the steep cliff and then through the rushing water of the river. It jumped up and down through a cloud of white splashing water, fighting against the current of the river, nervous and crazy with fear. And barely after about 15 seconds of intense activity and panic, it finally emerged at the other end safely yet exhausted. Within those few moments, the calm of the river had become a mass of churning white water with the first wildebeest providing the catalyst for a line of followers, one after the others, accelerating through the water with their lives dependent on it.






On the near side of the river, the successful crossers stood panting, shaking off the excess water from their sodden coats, and peered back watching out for friends and family

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We saw a 100% safe crossing, no 1 beast got swept downstream. Watching from the side seemed like a sick voyeurism – picking out who would survive and who wouldn't  Darwinism was playing out in front of our very eyes. And after a flurry of activity – no longer than 15 minutes in all – calm returned to the river. I found myself clapping happily seeing all the animals had safely crossed over, not a single injury or any other incidence. Some in the car lamented the fact that they wish had seen a kill (crocodile) – am glad I didn't.


The rivers and indeed the few isolated lakes in the African Savannah, are terrifying to the wildebeest firstly because of the animals’ fear of the water itself and the creatures it may hide, and secondly because water generally means vegetation, and thickets that may conceal predators. Yet the wildebeest have an inherent instinct to trek in a certain direction at any cost – despite their terror. It was just another stage albeit a major part of an otherwise perilous journey, for the wildebeest. This below image was provided by our Korean friends who saw yet another day (after we left) of the great migration





Wildebeest arrive at the Mara River in their tens of thousands, and gather waiting to cross. For days their numbers can be building up and anticipation grows but many times, for no apparent reason, they turn and wander away from the water’s edge. Eventually the wildebeest will choose a crossing point, something that can vary from year to year and cannot be predicted with any accuracy. Usually the chosen point will be a fairly placid stretch of water without too much predator-concealing vegetation in the far side, although occasionally they will choose seemingly suicidal places and drown in their hundreds.

We lived our dream trip, saw this beautiful great migration. We are richer and blessed for it. I can continue to dream about it for a long time to come.



25 comments:

TPSR said...

hi,
Very happy to see this blog. It is very nice experience while going through your creatives. Will visit again I am available here
Thanks

R Niranjan Das said...

It definitely is a wildlife wonder. Nice shots!

http://www.rajniranjandas.blogspot.in

melinda said...

I have never been t Africa, much less witnessed something as spectacular as this post- the great migration seems so alive, as If I just saw it in my minds eye! TY Mee:)))
Hugg

Anon said...

Awesome Awesome !!!

Namrata

Anon said...

Wow!
Really feeling jealous and inspired.
Best wishes
Jayant

john said...

U sure in the right profession? U r a natural story teller:DD Loved reading and seeing:DD

Anon said...

An absolute treat to read the blog.... pl. pl. pl. take your talent seriously and maybe start writing for
a travel magazine?

Pansy

Anon said...

Read, thank you! So lovely and touching, those poor beasts in their silly faces look so sad n compelled at it :) u've captured very nicely

Mee Roy

Anon said...

I read your story about a great migration of wildbeasts in your blogs.
Your narrations of each scene of migration are so vivid that I could get a rough image of it
without photos, amazing!!
There is a great power of energy for creations and destructions in Africa.

It encourages me to write something about my experiences in my life.

Hugs
Fumiko

Rahul said...

You witnessed something that most of us have only seen on Natgeo or Discovery, lucky you are :D

The loud sound and vibration of animals running must have been a great experience for sure..
So all that traveling stress discussed in last few posts was worth it :)))

Amazing post loved reading it :)))

magiceye said...

Wow! Awe inspiring! Thank you for sharing wonderful images and excellent commentary!

Anon said...

Amazing Very well put up! *thumbs up*

Ali Kochra

Mee said...

@TPSR: TY

@R Niranjan Das: it is and a complete joy too:))

@Mel: U must visit!

@Nam: TY:))

@JJ: No need to be jealous, plan a trip:))

@John: blush:DD

@PP - u r being a very good friend:))))

@Mee Roy: They are positively weird and ugly looking, but too paavam...cant help but feel for them:))

@Fumiko- so encouraging to hear those words TY:)))

@Rahul: It was exactly like those wonderful docus! :DDD

@magiceye: as awe inspiring as ur pics?:DD

@Ali - TY:)))

Anon said...

I forwarded ur kenya's article to a Nigerian, and asked for her review, and she has apriciated it a lot

Enzo

Anon said...

Sorry for the late reply. I was out of town. You witnessed it !! That's great I saw this things in NatGeo only :)) Wanna Go :)

Rajesh P

Sujit said...

Wildlife...
Amazing pictures

Anon said...

Very nice pictures Mee.

By reading the blog and looking at the pictures I can see you had a lovely holiday.

I have forwarded the blog to my mum who hasn't been "home" to Kenya for a long time.
So, I'm sure she will enjoy it too.

Which camera do you use?

FM. xx

kebhari said...

Nice picture to see these animals. very happy.

little ram said...

Lovely shots Meenakshi! It is so good of you to share your experiences; makes one live it vicariously! Awesome and a great post!

anil shanker said...

Hi Mee :)...awesome pics n a beautiful write up !

anil shanker said...

Hi Mee :)
nice pics n a beautiful write up

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