Go to Zanzibar! East Africa.

Everyone has heard of Zanzibar, but few know it’s whereabouts …it could almost be fictitious, one of those mythical names that conjure up exotic images of spices, tropical fruits, sultans, sailing vessels and the high seas. Happily for us, Zanzibar does exist, sitting just off the coast of Tanzania in east Africa. As do the spices and the tropical fruits -such sweet tasting pineapples full of juice :)

The Arabs made Zanzibar their capital, the Africans settled around it, and the whole world traded here – most infamously for slaves in the Grand Market which flourished in the 19th century

It was the seat of the Sultan – who moved here from Oman – and came to dominate other Arab city-states such as Mombasa, Lamu and Kilwa. The British captured it in 1890, and finally Zanzibar was declared a new independent state in 1963, attracting east German and Chinese support, and Freddie Mercury's parents (who was born here).

Landing in Dar-e-Salam, we flew into Karume Airport, the resort staff met us at the coast from where we hopped into a speed boat, to the resort. Upon arriving in Stone Town we went through the Zanzibar immigration too, however we are still fuzzy about why, given Zanzibar is still part of Tanzania. Anyway…

We did see many tourists being mobbed by touts trying to sell them cabs, accommodation, tours, etc. they are in your face and annoying. Fortunately we were whisked away rather quickly and briskly so in the end no harm done. My phone signal didn't once fade, all the way from Dar-e-salam to Zanzibar to Pemba, I was constantly on bbm with folks and friends even while in the middle of the Indian Ocean!:)

It does take a bit of travel time: planes, car, boat just to reach Paradise, but this secluded stretch of sand was so worth the journey. Our first impression of the beach, was how crystal turquoise the water was and how white the sand was!

A tiny but beautiful gated community of a handful of open-fronted bungalows on an isolated peninsula accessible only by  boat. That was our home for a few days in Zanzibar

The rooms were stylish, understated, with dark hardwood floors, crisp white linens, and cushy king-size beds. With a small dip pool right outside. A much needed break was here, at-last! What most appealed to me about this fundoo lagoon, beyond its eco-chic vibe, was the close relationship the management maintained with the villagers, many of whom built and now staff the hotel. The villagers have blessed the resort during traditional cleansing ceremonies such as the one involving goats. Voodoo and such cult stories are not my cuppa so we simply snorkelled, ate, drank and slept! And not to forget spa-d! :)

Zanzibar is an interesting discovery; one must make an effort to get around the island as every corner has something different to offer. The weather is different from the south to the north of the island, so if you can, chase the sun... when it starts raining on one side quickly move to a new spot. This allowed us to experience most of the island and really take advantage of the time we had there. So much hidden beauty there, you really need to take the time to explore or you’ll miss out on the best of Zanzibar

Zanzibar’s two large islands - Unguja (the main one) and Pemba - as well as a handful of other smaller islands are ringed with dazzlingly white beaches, turquoise waters and colourful corals. Put on a mask and flippers and you have a ready-made aquatic safari  - easily combined with a terrestrial safari by taking a short flight across the Indian Ocean to Africa’s best game parks (Serengeti. Masalai Mara -more on these in following posts). 

Snorkelling on the coral reefs we saw colourful fish and beautiful coral like we have only seen in books.  Sea cucumbers, sting rays, rock fish, Nemo clown fish, electric blue fish, angel fish, anemones, turtles, star fish, and many others that I clearly had no knowledge of

What a tropical life exists in Zanzibar. We weren’t lucky enough to see any dolphins, though the locals insisted that they spotted the dolphins dipping around us … 

Most of our days were spent reading and swimming (the hotel also had an infinity pool in addition to the beach); Eating was the other time pass most indulged in when there is nothing much else to do, if you love sea food, Zanzibar is an absolute haven for the non veggies, while the veg food ensures you lose weight and get back. A win- win both ways :)

With a map in hand we spent some time exploring Stone Town too. Shrouded in antiquity, Stone Town seems to be straight from an Arabian fairy-tale. I could wander around for days following its narrow cobblestone streets (they were about 4 feet wide) dodging scooters and watching children playing, walking past shops and inns and mosques, and the occasional fortress-like Cathedral (there are only 2 on this island that is 99% muslim, but they are huge, impressive buildings)

I kept looking for a magic carpet or Aladdin's lamp and think if I had stayed much longer I would have found them… With its many alleys, it can be easy to get lost, especially if walking around for hours one gets disoriented not really knowing where you are. We skipped the touristy things like the spice tour, instead chose to explore the “buzz”.  After being in the lagoon for a bit, the island feels a bit deserted, Stone Town felt a bit crowded, but in a nice way. Around us there was lots of business taking place, kids travelling in packs to school, fruit sellers calling out to passer bys, bikes were a bit bothersome for the fumes in the pure environment, some bikers were rash, they nearly motored some people down, flying through alleys. Hundreds of souvenir shops to gaze at and pick the right gifts. The buzz was nice.

    

In summation, Zanzibar has so much to offer, that it is really easy to spend time on the island

Watching the fishermen pass by with their stylish dows , women collecting shells and clams on the beach during low tide, finding the perfect spot to have our sunset drinks ...what more can a human ask for. A piece of heaven right here in Zanzibar. Go to ZanzibarJ

Preparation for East Africa

To avail pleasure, one must go through some pain – the elders meant this in a good way. Though in India, this adage takes on a new meaning all together.

The pleasure part was dreaming of  a summer-style beach resort, full with white walls, cool-crisp-clean white linen, blue waters, as I was off to Tanzania and Zanzibar and Kenya and Mombasa. For the safari I imagined wearing Sketchers and 3/4ths most of the time, but was imagining wearing my Zara sandals and swim gear for the beach. Glorious sunshine and an even more glorious world of the animal kingdom awaited me.

Pre-travel planning was a bit of a challenge. The Indian authorities expect you to hold a confirmed ticket to Africa + they expect you to have the yellow fever vaccine taken 10 days prior to flying. Catch 22…well…isn't that how our systems work?

The arduous challenge is in acquiring the yellow fever vaccine. First you have to find the administering office which is tucked away under a flyover that is being constructed near the Bombay international airport. Then by noon you must find your way to an *informal* list which is circulated by some people for *queuing* up (which is no guarantee you will be in the lucky 70 list of people to get vaccinated). Then you must return by night to physically queue up, because that gives you a *good chance* of being in the first 70 names the next morning! You can proxy your night presence, but if thr are 5 members in your group travelling together, you gotta proxy for 5 individual people. Sinister eh?

The next morning the lucky 70 get the vaccine. Don’t ask me why only 70 not less not more…If you are the 71st name, too bad, you don’t get the vaccine.

 Ohhh hang on…you can get that vaccine, if you are 71st or 201st in the queue of the *unlucky lot*! Provided you are willing to shell out Rs 2500/- per individual per vaccine instead of the *official* Rs 350/-

Why would any State Dept *only* provide for 70 vaccines per day beats all logic, other than, providing means of increasing corruption in the supply chain for all the touts that are part it . Am sure this includes the docs as also the well fed and well clothed touts! Artificial shortage of the vaccine is created to allow a corrupt system to flourish. Where is the law? Yes my disdain is apparent. We make a business out of people’s miseries in this country! 

Trip to Africa was already getting dampened even before I had started to pack:(

Northern Ireland, Belfast

As you read you will realize, why I am introducing this post, with a little bit of historical/revolution perspective. Ireland, geographically, is a single island, but is divided into two separate political countries: the Republic of Ireland, which is an entirely separate nation from the United Kingdom, and Northern Ireland, which is a part of the UK. Until 1921, Ireland was one undivided country, although colonized and dominated politically by the British for many centuries before that. In 1921-22, as Ireland demanded its own sovereignty, and under pressure from the local, mostly protestant population in the north, the British and Irish authorities forced the division of Ireland into north and south. Northern Ireland remained British as part of the United Kingdom while Southern Ireland became the Free State (under the leadership of a soldier and a politician called Michael Collins)

--Ireland is much larger than Northern Ireland.
--Ireland is a sovereign nation and its capital is Dublin. Ireland covers about five-sixth of the island. Northern Ireland is a part of UK and its capital is Belfast.
--When comparing the religion of the two regions, the Republic of Ireland is largely made up of catholics, while Northern Ireland is majority protestant
--Northern Ireland uses the British Pound as its currency, while the Republic of Ireland has opted for the Euro.
--Ireland is governed by itself. Northern Ireland remains under British Sovereign law.

It took a year long civil war before the formation of Republic of Ireland

The violence in Northern Ireland during the last part of the 20th century was largely caused by Irish Republican activists who objected to the British military presence in Northern Ireland. The army was originally brought in to protect the catholic minority after years of protestant Unionist control and discrimination. However, with the civil population in turmoil, the IRA took advantage of the political vacuum, reformed, grew quickly and began a bombing and shooting campaign. Protestant Loyalists formed their own para-military groups and both sides began a terror conflict, known as The Troubles, which lasted into the late-1990s.

We took the train to reach Belfast, a lovely journey skirting the coastline of Ireland, passing through the Mountains of Mourne.

The first thing we did upon reaching Belfast is us girls took the black Taxi tour while the guys took the hop on hop off.  The driver gave us a tour of Belfast including the murals painted during the troubled years.

The murals are images of the struggles of the oppressed - very them vs. us. The murals (a 100sq feet of distance) clearly seemed to reflect the sectarian divide, of popular beliefs and popular culture

Crowne Saloon shall never be forgotten, not only for the fact it was bustling mid noon but also because it had live music while we gobbled down our lunch! The folks swear that the *best  pint* was in Belfast at The Crown Liquor Saloon Bar, and not at the Guinness storehouse :D

I tried. I tell you, I put up a spirited fight too. I dint want to go see the Titanic dock and pump house- but had to eventually, as I was vetoed by others. Located within sight of the Catholic community, big ships like the Titanic were built, bringing pride and wealth to Belfast. Well, at least to parts of Belfast ... it was an unwritten policy not to hire Catholics in these shipyards.

This museum opened March 31(100yrs ago) tells you the story of the Titanic, from the ship's construction in Belfast to her sinking in the Atlantic on her maiden voyage. Visitors look down on a projection showing images of the wreck of the Titanic on the seabed at the Titanic Belfast museum. A re-creation of a room (cabin), complete with computer-video projections of passengers, a woman flying from the hull of a ship in one of the galleries,  a replica of the grand staircase from the sunken Titanic –all is on display…yes there is lots to see, if you are at sea (I mean if you are a Titanic fan!)

Next we saw was the Folklore museum which clearly belongs to another period. All the buildings were very authentic period, a proper village with a court house, bank, church, shops, pub, picture house, post office, even a corner tea shop.  Set in over 170 acres of rolling countryside, the narration is about life in early 20th century Ulster.  A national school that helped push literacy and provide education for all children. The Post Office- Royal mail - began in 1635 by King Charles I (in an effort to raise money) was made available to his subjects. Did you know that originally postage was paid by the recipient, not the sender, and charges were based on the number of sheets of paper and the distance involved? There also is a public weighbridge  - most goods were traded in bulk and by weight so both the seller and the buyer needed to have accurate measurements. One can easily spend an entire day here, so if touring these parts, plan the day well.

Our next pit stop was at the Queens University, where you can’t help but marvel the splendorous form and design of the structure. None of us are alien to British architecture, if there is one thing, we have to hand them, it is the gift of their awe inspiring architecture. The advantage of being on the hop on hop off was also that  our tired feet beyond a point could not walk no-more  so we happily sat in the bus and saw some place like the parliament of the University and many other unrecognisable buildings from the top of the red bus 

Parliament

A few tips: When in Belfast eat on the cheap by taking advantage of local supermarkets, including Tesco/Dunnes, avoid the small corner grocery shops that often overcharge. Consider eating in pubs versus restaurants. You'll get hearty meals like Sunday roasts that are more traditional without paying what can be high price tags at regular restaurants. Pubs also offer lunches and early bird dinner prices. Check before you go because not every pub does cooked meals; some just have bar snacks.

In love with Ireland

Going to Ireland was very different from travelling around the USA or M'sia. Half the charm of Ireland is spending lots of time in the small, quaint Irish towns. 

I'd recommend spending a couple of days in Dublin, but spend more time out in the middle of nowhere at small bed and breakfasts:D -leaves you closer to the castles and sites you want to visit. You'll come away with a better view of the romantic Ireland that most travellers including myself went to see.

Best way to see Ireland is to either rent a car or take a bus/train to get around great country side and small towns along the way. Our hotel was barely a 5 minute cab drive away from the shopping streets which looked quaint and original… but because we had landed in the early hours, the shopping streets were not yet open, nor were our rooms ready, so we decided to go walk outside - a perfect day, complete with a musical merry-go-round and the nicest cafes surrounded us. With grey skies, threatening to rain sitting in a cafe with a warm cappuccino suddenly Dublin became the most happening city in Ireland - I guess when we are less hungry we actually appreciate the subtle beauty, the calm perfection of this, very old yet extremely modern city! After a leisurely breakfast we headed to a multi brand super store, very avant-garde and did some early shopping :DD

The cold and the rain were no deterrents for us – we visited an art gallery and where delighted to see Leonid Afremov’s vibrant paintings-  a celebration of art and colours,  a 10min walk took us to the chocolate factory that warmed our hearts on a cold and wet  rainy, rainy day:DD

About noon we headed for the Guinness Factory tour ( a tip: buy the tickets on-line to save yourself from long queues) 

which gets a big thumbs up, because what you are really paying for is getting up to the top to enjoy a pint with a gorgeous view of Dublin City. We skipped the guided tour which felt slow, and boring – headed to the Gravity bar with views of the city and the free pint. There is a great atmosphere and as the sun decided to warm us nicely, we started falling in love with Ireland. Dare I quickly add here, Guinness is not to my taste (it was my first and last try of it) :D

Of course you can't go to Dublin and not visit Temple Bar. Irish atmosphere is contagious here! You don't

pay to get in and some nights they have live music. Funky shops, eclectic cafes, hordes of stylish young Europeans have made Temple Bar, a definite pit stop whether in Dublin for a day or a week. Get your bearings in the day time then explore the night-life! Tante Zoes- American, Creole, European Temple Bar, Dublin's own French Quarter for lively Cajun/Creole restaurant…much, much to take in here

Book of Kells was fascinating, even if you're not Christian or religious. The detail, the artwork - simply amazing. Before you go, however, read up a little on it. It is so much more impressive it you know at least a little before you go. Be prepared for the crowds. A place that clearly belonged to earlier times- has beautiful architecture, cobble-stone pavements, campanile, student chatter & bustle - all add to the great sense of history of this perfectly located university, with its wonderful libraries & the Book of Kells as samples of all that is on offer.

Day one we had packed in much, were dead beat with a longish flight behind us, and the non-stop touring since early hours, we stopped at a delicatessen, had some coffee  and waffles to revive our flagging energies, bought some wonderful pastry for our ‘after lunch dessert the next morning’ - except, it didn't make it - we ate it as a late night snack! :DD

Dublin’s Grafton street is another awesome lively part of the town. The street is booming with street vendors, entertainers and uber cool designer shops. The coffee shops offer wonderful treats with high energy levels. It is the main shopping street in Dublin – need deep pockets as the stuff is enticing. There are plenty of reasonably priced shops to choose from as well, depending on the budget.

Nice hip atmosphere with many talented buskers all the way up and down the street. It's a place you can easily spend an entire day before you realize the day is over! You can't help but notice the amount of shops that are now closed on Grafton St. –On speaking with the locals, it became apparent, that the high rents are unsustainable in a country that does not understand the perils of expensive property. A wake up for Bombay?

Day 2 early hours saw us back on Grafton Street but now it was near empty with only a few solitary people on their way to office buildings , or darting around delivery trucks. The bronze Molly Malone statue fits the street quite well in the morning light without tourists posing in front of her for photographs; however, her low cut dress seemed a little daring for the sunrise! :DD\

We anchored at Bewleys Café – for Tea (and coffee) and scones - the magic of hot water pouring  into the cup, admiring the stained glass, the artwork, and the highly decorated architectural details of the 1920s building, simply make you wish to linger on forever over your cuppa. We ordered takeaways, stepped out the front door onto the colorful entrance tiles before continuing our stroll towards St Stephens Green (park) – where we parked ourselves on lovely benches to see the swans and ducks scuttle about on the pond in front of us until our tea and coffees were done with.  Day 2 morning bliss of quiet soon gave way to click-clack sounds of dress shoes hitting the footpaths, rumbling buses, taxis, delivery trucks, and other furious sounds of the city.

We saw a heckalot sights and sounds – many captured in the mind, at the risk of making this post too long, shall take a break now, will look at posting another post on Dublin soon.