Sunday

Northern Ireland, Belfast

As you read you will realize, why I am introducing this post, with a little bit of historical/revolution perspective. Ireland, geographically, is a single island, but is divided into two separate political countries: the Republic of Ireland, which is an entirely separate nation from the United Kingdom, and Northern Ireland, which is a part of the UK. Until 1921, Ireland was one undivided country, although colonized and dominated politically by the British for many centuries before that. In 1921-22, as Ireland demanded its own sovereignty, and under pressure from the local, mostly protestant population in the north, the British and Irish authorities forced the division of Ireland into north and south. Northern Ireland remained British as part of the United Kingdom while Southern Ireland became the Free State (under the leadership of a soldier and a politician called Michael Collins)





--Ireland is much larger than Northern Ireland.
--Ireland is a sovereign nation and its capital is Dublin. Ireland covers about five-sixth of the island. Northern Ireland is a part of UK and its capital is Belfast.
--When comparing the religion of the two regions, the Republic of Ireland is largely made up of catholics, while Northern Ireland is majority protestant
--Northern Ireland uses the British Pound as its currency, while the Republic of Ireland has opted for the Euro.
--Ireland is governed by itself. Northern Ireland remains under British Sovereign law.


It took a year long civil war before the formation of Republic of Ireland
The violence in Northern Ireland during the last part of the 20th century was largely caused by Irish Republican activists who objected to the British military presence in Northern Ireland. The army was originally brought in to protect the catholic minority after years of protestant Unionist control and discrimination. However, with the civil population in turmoil, the IRA took advantage of the political vacuum, reformed, grew quickly and began a bombing and shooting campaign. Protestant Loyalists formed their own para-military groups and both sides began a terror conflict, known as The Troubles, which lasted into the late-1990s.

We took the train to reach Belfast, a lovely journey skirting the coastline of Ireland, passing through the Mountains of Mourne.
















The first thing we did upon reaching Belfast is us girls took the black Taxi tour while the guys took the hop on hop off.  The driver gave us a tour of Belfast including the murals painted during the troubled years.





The murals are images of the struggles of the oppressed - very them vs. us. The murals (a 100sq feet of distance) clearly seemed to reflect the sectarian divide, of popular beliefs and popular culture







Crowne Saloon shall never be forgotten, not only for the fact it was bustling mid noon but also because it had live music while we gobbled down our lunch! The folks swear that the *best  pint* was in Belfast at The Crown Liquor Saloon Bar, and not at the Guinness storehouse :D



I tried. I tell you, I put up a spirited fight too. I dint want to go see the Titanic dock and pump house- but had to eventually, as I was vetoed by others. Located within sight of the Catholic community, big ships like the Titanic were built, bringing pride and wealth to Belfast. Well, at least to parts of Belfast ... it was an unwritten policy not to hire Catholics in these shipyards.



This museum opened March 31(100yrs ago) tells you the story of the Titanic, from the ship's construction in Belfast to her sinking in the Atlantic on her maiden voyage. Visitors look down on a projection showing images of the wreck of the Titanic on the seabed at the Titanic Belfast museum. A re-creation of a room (cabin), complete with computer-video projections of passengers, a woman flying from the hull of a ship in one of the galleries,  a replica of the grand staircase from the sunken Titanic –all is on display…yes there is lots to see, if you are at sea (I mean if you are a Titanic fan!)





Next we saw was the Folklore museum which clearly belongs to another period. All the buildings were very authentic period, a proper village with a court house, bank, church, shops, pub, picture house, post office, even a corner tea shop.  Set in over 170 acres of rolling countryside, the narration is about life in early 20th century Ulster.  A national school that helped push literacy and provide education for all children. The Post Office- Royal mail - began in 1635 by King Charles I (in an effort to raise money) was made available to his subjects. Did you know that originally postage was paid by the recipient, not the sender, and charges were based on the number of sheets of paper and the distance involved? There also is a public weighbridge  - most goods were traded in bulk and by weight so both the seller and the buyer needed to have accurate measurements. One can easily spend an entire day here, so if touring these parts, plan the day well.






Our next pit stop was at the Queens University, where you can’t help but marvel the splendorous form and design of the structure. None of us are alien to British architecture, if there is one thing, we have to hand them, it is the gift of their awe inspiring architecture. The advantage of being on the hop on hop off was also that  our tired feet beyond a point could not walk no-more  so we happily sat in the bus and saw some place like the parliament of the University and many other unrecognisable buildings from the top of the red bus 

Parliament








A few tips: When in Belfast eat on the cheap by taking advantage of local supermarkets, including Tesco/Dunnes, avoid the small corner grocery shops that often overcharge. Consider eating in pubs versus restaurants. You'll get hearty meals like Sunday roasts that are more traditional without paying what can be high price tags at regular restaurants. Pubs also offer lunches and early bird dinner prices. Check before you go because not every pub does cooked meals; some just have bar snacks.


Monday

In love with Ireland




Going to Ireland was very different from travelling around the USA or M'sia. Half the charm of Ireland is spending lots of time in the small, quaint Irish towns. 




I'd recommend spending a couple of days in Dublin, but spend more time out in the middle of nowhere at small bed and breakfasts:D -leaves you closer to the castles and sites you want to visit. You'll come away with a better view of the romantic Ireland that most travellers including myself went to see.


Best way to see Ireland is to either rent a car or take a bus/train to get around great country side and small towns along the way. Our hotel was barely a 5 minute cab drive away from the shopping streets which looked quaint and original… but because we had landed in the early hours, the shopping streets were not yet open, nor were our rooms ready, so we decided to go walk outside - a perfect day, complete with a musical merry-go-round and the nicest cafes surrounded us. With grey skies, threatening to rain sitting in a cafe with a warm cappuccino suddenly Dublin became the most happening city in Ireland - I guess when we are less hungry we actually appreciate the subtle beauty, the calm perfection of this, very old yet extremely modern city! After a leisurely breakfast we headed to a multi brand super store, very avant-garde and did some early shopping :DD



The cold and the rain were no deterrents for us – we visited an art gallery and where delighted to see Leonid Afremov’s vibrant paintings-  a celebration of art and colours,  a 10min walk took us to the chocolate factory that warmed our hearts on a cold and wet  rainy, rainy day:DD






About noon we headed for the Guinness Factory tour ( a tip: buy the tickets on-line to save yourself from long queues) 
which gets a big thumbs up, because what you are really paying for is getting up to the top to enjoy a pint with a gorgeous view of Dublin City. We skipped the guided tour which felt slow, and boring – headed to the Gravity bar with views of the city and the free pint. There is a great atmosphere and as the sun decided to warm us nicely, we started falling in love with Ireland. Dare I quickly add here, Guinness is not to my taste (it was my first and last try of it) :D


Of course you can't go to Dublin and not visit Temple Bar. Irish atmosphere is contagious here! You don't
pay to get in and some nights they have live music. Funky shops, eclectic cafes, hordes of stylish young Europeans have made Temple Bar, a definite pit stop whether in Dublin for a day or a week. Get your bearings in the day time then explore the night-life! Tante Zoes- American, Creole, European Temple Bar, Dublin's own French Quarter for lively Cajun/Creole restaurant…much, much to take in here















Book of Kells was fascinating, even if you're not Christian or religious. The detail, the artwork - simply amazing. Before you go, however, read up a little on it. It is so much more impressive it you know at least a little before you go. Be prepared for the crowds. A place that clearly belonged to earlier times- has beautiful architecture, cobble-stone pavements, campanile, student chatter & bustle - all add to the great sense of history of this perfectly located university, with its wonderful libraries & the Book of Kells as samples of all that is on offer.

Day one we had packed in much, were dead beat with a longish flight behind us, and the non-stop touring since early hours, we stopped at a delicatessen, had some coffee  and waffles to revive our flagging energies, bought some wonderful pastry for our ‘after lunch dessert the next morning’ - except, it didn't make it - we ate it as a late night snack! :DD

Dublin’s Grafton street is another awesome lively part of the town. The street is booming with street vendors, entertainers and uber cool designer shops. The coffee shops offer wonderful treats with high energy levels. It is the main shopping street in Dublin – need deep pockets as the stuff is enticing. There are plenty of reasonably priced shops to choose from as well, depending on the budget.



Nice hip atmosphere with many talented buskers all the way up and down the street. It's a place you can easily spend an entire day before you realize the day is over! You can't help but notice the amount of shops that are now closed on Grafton St. –On speaking with the locals, it became apparent, that the high rents are unsustainable in a country that does not understand the perils of expensive property. A wake up for Bombay?


Day 2 early hours saw us back on Grafton Street but now it was near empty with only a few solitary people on their way to office buildings , or darting around delivery trucks. The bronze Molly Malone statue fits the street quite well in the morning light without tourists posing in front of her for photographs; however, her low cut dress seemed a little daring for the sunrise! :DD\





We anchored at Bewleys CafĂ© – for Tea (and coffee) and scones - the magic of hot water pouring  into the cup, admiring the stained glass, the artwork, and the highly decorated architectural details of the 1920s building, simply make you wish to linger on forever over your cuppa. We ordered takeaways, stepped out the front door onto the colorful entrance tiles before continuing our stroll towards St Stephens Green (park) – where we parked ourselves on lovely benches to see the swans and ducks scuttle about on the pond in front of us until our tea and coffees were done with.  Day 2 morning bliss of quiet soon gave way to click-clack sounds of dress shoes hitting the footpaths, rumbling buses, taxis, delivery trucks, and other furious sounds of the city.






















We saw a heckalot sights and sounds – many captured in the mind, at the risk of making this post too long, shall take a break now, will look at posting another post on Dublin soon.


Tuesday

Trivandrum, Kerala.






 Kerala is the only democratically elected communist leadership in the world as well as the most successful state in India with 98% literacy.

Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) became the capital of Travancore in 1750. The city gets its name from the word, Thiru-anantha-puram, meaning the city of Anantha or "the town of Lord ANANTHA", the abode of the sacred Serpent Anantha on which Lord Vishnu, the preserver of the Hindu trinity, reclines. Thiruvananthapuram, the capital of the state of Kerala is a beautiful seaside city built on seven hills. The city is characterized by its undulating terrain of low coastal hills with narrow winding lanes and busy commercial alleys.




Kovalam is this beautiful compact crescent shaped beach, lined with a small number of restaurants, yet not filled with backpackers or tourists Dotting this long stretch of crescent shaped beach is the Lighthouse beach, Eve's beach and Samudra beach. Very popular with foreigners for tanning, swimming in the early hours and through the day, however, by evening this beach is mostly frequented by Indians who come to see the beautiful sunset. Every 5am we would see at least 40-50 men pulling in trawlers/nets by hand which had been laid some time earlier. And by 8am all the haul is distributed, fishing activity ceases. You do witness a lot many boats plying at all times during the day, it’s a working beach indeed.


Stepping into the city, you witness it's splendid past in it's old buildings, most of them built in wood in the Kerala style, with tiled roofs and carved gables, in it's botanical garden and zoo with it's quaint museum; in it's wide roads and public buildings; and in it's lively intellectual life. Some of Kerala's leading filmmakers, poets and writers live here.

The historical heart of the city is in the Fort area and if you want to have a peek at the dance drama scene then behind the temple (in the Fort area) is Margi school of Kathakali –the place to ask about authentic Kathakali performances. To see arts and crafts including 12th century Chola bronzes, 15th century woodcarvings and minutely detailed ivory work check out the Napier Museum


Trivandrum is not a typical capital city, more like a small town. Tho rapidly growing into a techpark city, the topography retains old quarter clusters around the temple, the colonial mansions, and churches alongside modern high-rises. Trivandrum has managed to retain some of the ambience characteristics of Kerala such as red tiled roofs, narrow winding lanes and intimate corner cafes.


 High quality highways are not yet in place, but we could see a lot of work underway on roads. I do not remember the name of the interior roads we travelled on to reach the airport, but those roads were something else. At 4am in the morning those roads were like the runway of the airport with central LED strips for kms at a stretch! Super awesome!


Perhaps one needs more than 2 days to get to know the pulse of the city, perhaps my stark impressions may deepen.

My summary - A sleepy town, soon, an emerging city…  

Thursday

Food in Varkala, Kerala


Yes I might be a lil biased when I say Varkala is a stunner, certainly so, when looking down on the beach from the red cliff path! But the real beauty of Varkala is its laid back atmosphere. There’s no beeping horns, smoke-belching exhausts or lunatic driving. Indians don’t really holiday in this part of Varkala and you generally only see ‘foreign’ faces – mostly backpackers. 


A strip of restaurants, souvenir shops and hotels stretches along the cliffs for about a mile and apart from the halfhearted attempts from the vendors to attract you into their shops for a look (‘looking is free’, apparently) it’s a lovely walk to do. While some roads run perpendicular to the cliffs (and a few directly to the sea), the main artery is a brick pathway that runs for about 2km along the edge of the cliffs; there are no vehicles allowed here, although the rare motorcycle does slowly putter by. 



Along with restaurants, hotels and guest houses facing the sea together with shop after shop selling jewelry, clothes, wall hangings, etc. which is just the first row, further back among the coconut palm trees you can find many more rows of hotels of every price range (there is road and vehicle access back there) and occasionally more shops too.  


We were ridiculously lazy in Varkala but, in our defense, it’s that kind of place. There’s very little to do aside from yoga classes, Ayurveda massages, eating and drinking. Time was spent reading in the hotel garden overlooking the sea, or eating and drinking in one of the many stunning restaurant roof terraces which line the cliff edge and have fantastic views over the beach and water below - the Sundowner heaven

 



Each restaurant had more or less the same menu, with a huge selection of Italian, Thai, and Chinese and of course Indian dishes. None were stunners, after having experimented the varied many eating places the first few days; we settled into a pattern with a handful good ones. There are plenty of restaurants, all with amazing views; mellow music and a few even offering free Wi-Fi. 


After an early morning swim we’d ascend the cliff to park ourselves for breakfast at the Cafe Del Mar or Abba for an English or American breakfast. Food was always fresh, delicious and mostly organic. Varkala is a sea-food lover’s paradise. Many restaurants display in front seafood caught by the local fishermen. Select your food, get it prepared and savour it watching the sunset. The ubiquitous Kerala food is not easy to find on the cliff unfortunately. Coffee Temple was our temple for good coffee especially given the need for good quality caffeine.  Frozen yogurts is a lovely place to visit for its ambience and cheery mood, simply makes you happy. Blue Marine restaurant and Ginger cafĂ© were also frequented by us for dinner/snacks when the urge was to have Indian food. 


 
It wouldn’t be unfair to say our best meal was the last meal in Varkala - at the hotel, when the cook, especially prepared for us, soft idlis, dosas and crisp crunchy vadas with piping hot sambar and chutney. That said, the beauty about a place like Varkala is- it is nice to be able to sit in a restaurant and actually take as much time as you wish over your drink/meal. No one will hurry you up, fire you a cup of tea swiftly followed by the bill, and get you out the door as soon as possible to make way for the next customer 
  

Varkala is beyond anything that we had envisioned—in a good way. Or perhaps then, we had very little expectations. One never tired of the view from on top of the cliffs, one soaked in the laid back energies. Everyone in Varkala is very friendly.  I often find that in a really chilled out place like Varkala where there is little to do but relax and watch the world go by that I find myself contemplating my life, my plans for the future and the ‘what’s life all about’ conundrum :)