Grand Prix at Sepang, Malaysia

Putting aside the glamour that is associated with F1 being the richest sport in the world, Formula One exposes itself to be the embodiment of all things that define a competitive sport at the very limits of Man’s capabilities. Whether it’s the painstakingly disciplined level of fitness the 22 drivers have to maintain, or the commitment of 100's of people who labour all year round to design, build and maintain a set of monstrously fast cars that represent the absolute cutting edge of technology – it all comes together to form a spectacular season of ultimate sport.

This was my 3rd Live race. And a tad disappointing too. The Sepang stadium was not fully packed, the weather gods threatened rain but nothing beyond a few drops of drizzle, and most importantly a race not like many F1 races I have seen before!
So many pit stops for tyre changes?!? Baffling!

There were lots of individual battles, some surprises but overall disappointment for me. Two happy moments I took away from Sundays race was Felipe’s brilliantly fought lead at T4, T5 finally giving way to Webber at T6. More often than not Felipe loses his rightful spot in the sun because Alonso is the favored child of Ferrari. More aggressive, more steely, more competitive!

And the other moment - the fierce battle between Alonso and Hamilton. Actually any head to head becomes delicious because of the much acclaimed public warring of the past, between these two. Credit to Lewis who kept his lead. Alonso was all over Lewis’s backside, finally Alonso’s front wing touched Lewis’s back tyres, knocking off the front fender from Alonso;s car which forced him to pit, thereby losing a could-be podium… :(

I was so so disappointed with Ferrari’s performance - no Prancing Horse once again on the podium :( !! Since I can remember I have been a fan of the Ferrari, I thrilled and loved the races till 2009 when Ferrari dominated every circuit in the season, with a vice like grip, unshakeable was its dominance! But since 2009 ( Schumi's retirement) the races have fast started losing its charm for me, I don’t see Ferrari cars making it often to the podium!

Ok - back to Sepang, yet another horrific moment is etched in the memory. When I saw Vitaly drive off the circuit into the gravel with the steering wheel full of buttons and controls that had come off in his hands!! Imagine his feelings coming to rest alongside a signage showing '150 meters' to the next turn; bitter and ironical.

The good news (or bad?) from the Malaysian government communique is that, they are yet to decide whether to keep hosting the annual Grand Prix's at Sepang beyond 2015. PM Najib said he was happy with Sunday’s bigger crowd than usual – more than 100,000 – and sounded optimistic about the future. So we will know, in time I guess…

'Overall': what makes these races special - besides the fact that it is such a specialized sport ( don’t be mistaken – this isn’t a motor sport where cars simply go round and round in a circuit) - F1 makes the most of every competitive factor; from the characteristics of a track designed to challenge drivers’ and cars’ technical capacity and endurance, to the outwitting of rivals in race strategy or wheel-to-wheel in overtaking.

Also the fact that this sport is hugely (perhaps the only one) which is truly international, in every definition of the word “international”!! Drivers, work with engineers and technicians from varying cultural backgrounds. Life is dependent on language, trust and respect. And they all seem to thrive on it:) Now only if our daily world could learn from this – we as a globe would live more peacefully and harmoniously with each other

Here is wishing Ferrari better luck in Shanghai, hope to see a spectacular Live race in Noida Delhi in Oct 2011 of the GP, this season!

Bombay Bangalore highway driving- dream fulfilled

Driving 9hours of a 13hr journey because the road was divided, and because it had a proper 4 lane driving path was fulfilling! A highway lined with bursting red, pink, pale yellow, white flowers - all along the 13hour stretch! Beautiful.

But all is not well.

Years ago people were mindful of other drivers and were respectful of highway etiquette which is very sadly lacking in today’s driving scenario! If you are in a vehicle that cannot drive at a speed meant to be on the right side of the road, then you have no business driving on the right side. Period! People stick to the right side of the road, drive slow, stay adamantly stuck to the right side even if you flash your headlights or honk(considered bad road manners)! Such thick skinned, arrogant attitude amazed us all through are onwards and return journey! Such lack of civility and road ethics… I don’t get it honestly; this thick skinned attitude was a bit puzzling and a bit scary. Because if they don’t know the basics what are they doing driving on highways?!?

The Pune expressway as always feels like the runway (given the chaos of traffic in Bombay), but wait till you hit the Karnataka highway! Pure makhaan – the car glides on the roads effortlessly- what a pleasure driving on these roads

Straight, straight straight touching the horizon, undulating up and down in parts, the highway roads in India have never been such a pleasure before

I was so full of pride to see and realize the beauty of NH4! Wow somewhere someone in the Govt machinery is working (atleast construction of highways proves that!)

The closer one moves towards Bangalore the highway topography changes a bit – the 4 way divided highway becomes elevated and includes underpasses and service roads for the entire length on both sides of the highway. So if one is searching for a petrol pump or is looking for a washroom break- its best to stick to the left side of the road to detect a road break to get off the highway onto the narrow road below

We witnessed many pockets where cattle breeders were generally parked on the median resting, pondering…with their legs stretched out on the highway road- don’t stick too close to the median while driving…

A few words of advice:

There are way too many trucks (as expected) plying these highways. The reason to be sharp and careful (especially if driving in the wee hours of the night)is, A LOT OF THESE trucks do not have rear light or brake light. So you maybe speeding and before you know it you may kiss the back of a black truck that was camouflaged because of the night:( be CAREFUL

Keep ready money for the multitude toll plazas that come all along the journey, it’s not good to hold up traffic for lack of exact change

For those who love Ferrari and the races, do determine speed by the car you drive, the age of tyres and how well you can handle speed.

We witnessed some bad crashes on NH4, helped put an immediate perspective on our own driving speeds and skills. Sad reminders though. Road routes are not about how soon you get there, but whether you do! Driving on highways is really about staying alert while enjoying the ride.

Safe driving!

Jaisalmer: Sun, sand, silence... sandstone

Its all about Soul, Joy

Knowing the sun will rise

And a new day will dawn

The land of raw energy:

Jaisalmer

The Living Museum, Jaisalmer

A city so exotic. Unusual

Located very close to the Thar Desert and about 100km away from the Pakistan border

Dominated by the Jaisalmer Fort. A fort that is alive with shops, hotels, havelis, roads, animals inside the fort area.

I could write so much about the many things we saw and did in Jaisalmer but would like to limit my focus on the tearing need for sensitivity towards Jaisalmer Fort.

Tourists can indeed stay inside the Fort itself. However, eco-conscious tourists might want to consider staying outside the Fort to avoid putting additional pressure on the Fort's ancient sewage system (3 of the 99 bastions have already crumbled because of water seepage into the foundations). In the past year, there have been hotels and residents inside the Fort taking initiatives to help with restoration to avoid displacement of the locals. Visitors may want to check with the local hotels inside the Fort and ask what they are doing to contribute towards the Forts preservation. This could lead to greater efforts through awareness and action.

This Fort is the only Fort in the world in use, Carcassonne being the only other one I know of, which is witnessing many problems. While in earlier times, water used in the Fort had to be carried in buckets; the introduction of taps has changed the blueprint of this magnificent Fort, causing the structure to start sinking. Being made of sand, water is literally washing away its foundations; an issue that will be quite difficult to tackle in the times to come, if not addressed on an immediate basis.

If you travel next time to Jaisalmer, pls do your bit. Stay conscious to the needs of the locals. Love the sights and sounds of Jaisalmer; for the city will ensure you leave your heart behind:) Its honey colored golden stone will cast an eternal spell around you. You will wish to carry it back home in your travel bag.

It’s a gorgeous city, in need of much nurturing. Treat it with love and respect, as many many more centuries of civilizations, must indeed enjoy the raw energy called Jaisalmer, Rajasthan.

Animals of the Desert- Jaisalmer

Egypt, beyond the Nile, pyramids and Cleopatra!

I remember the great excitement when I landed in Cairo the first time. Foreign land, in an unfamiliar airport, yet bubbling with unbridled excitement knowing I was in the land of the most ancient civilization ready to discover history for the first time in my life (despite having a double passport book)!

The airport was not glitzy but my God the city certainly looked snazzy! Flyovers crisscrossing zanily a la New Yorkesque, people buzzing busily on the streets, traffic zooming in all directions and the ride to the hotel saw me absorb all the sights and sounds in gulps!

Egyptians pay a lot of attention to traffic laws...and I understand why, better now- because of the much dreaded police (worst symbol of the tyranny of the Regime) who are autocratic, wilful and powerful.

Cabbies crazily and stubbornly don’t move their hands off the horns, as they weave in & out of traffic. The people who ride in public buses instinctively know when to jump out of harm’s way and onto the streets. The buses always overloaded with people, with barely any standing room, sway from side to side making their way on a busy road. I felt completely at home. These scenes are just the same in India:) Egypt to this extent was not another world...but sure, another culture with codes of their own which one definitely respected.

Culturally, Egypt is a Muslim country. Even in the big cities (Cairo,Giza,Luxor, Alexandria) a woman should have a male companion with her when on the street. Ladies should have shoulders and upper arms covered, closed neck top, skirt below the knees, pants are ok, but ought to be loose. Modesty is the key word. I respected their culture and adhered to the codes.

As hot as Egypt is, the warmest things I saw were the smiles of the children – sometimes I so wish for a world made of only children. We would have no corruption nor politics

Love crosses cultural lines! Talking to Egyptians in a universal language (signs and symbols) was a wonderful experience. Walking through shopping streets I observed them as warm, loving parents with their children in the parks and malls. Speaking with foreigners I saw them flirt, guide, direct and converse intelligently. Cultural differences indeed vanish when people care! A positive environment is all that is needed.

The Nile River was just across the street from us, we took a cruise on the Nile. It is much larger than I had ever imagined. We met many young people who were out on a date, or accompanying their college/school for a picnic. Singing popular Egyptian songs set to rhythmic foot tapping beats ( a la Bollywood). As modern Egyptians lived their lives in a busy bustle, I also saw many people still living as they did many years ago. Fishing on the Nile for a livelihood (a la Kerala), washing off stream (a la Varanasi). Images of diverse India would flash past the mind, so often.

Did you know Egyptian influence is huge on French cuisine? Yep! An important influence of Egyptian cooking is the use of wine to soften meats and also to change the feel of vegetables. Many people think that it is part of French cuisine but actually wine has been in use by Egyptians in their cooking for many centuries. Bamya is a dish consisting of okra and meat which is made into stew. Though this is unique to the Egyptians, one can find this in French cuisine too. And omg the sweets/mithais of Egypt are to die for, those who have not read my older post < I have dedicated a post exclusively to Egyptian sweets (http://meetravels.blogspot.com/2008/12/have-food-will-travel.html)

The Cairo Museum: my first impressions of the beautiful landscaped gardens, an oasis of peace. And on the inside I do remember the mummies amongst a lot of other ancient treasures. Rooms full of mummies. And believe me, once you have seen one mummy, they all look alike:) But yesterday when I saw the museum on fire, my blood curdled and I wanted to shout and scream and run to save the museum! I felt sad for why would these pro- Mubarak protesters want to damage their own treasures? They have treasures that we don't have. Their history goes back into the sands of time...the times of the Pharaohs, the times of the ruling Queens, the time of Moses, the time when Joseph & Mary fled with young Jesus...Why would they want to destroy something that is their own? Do they even understand and respect their history?:(

Its surreal to see the unrest in Egypt. While I know and understand that the present day inhabitants of Egypt are not the indigenous people, I still feel a kindred spirit and very at home in Egypt. Many even thought I belonged to Egypt and spoke to me in Arabic! Regardless, whether they knew I was an Indian or a tourist I could see they generally wanted me to enjoy my stay in their country.

Fast forward to the unrest I see on TV, sure we are seeing one of the rarest of things -- a moment when the people lose their fear of the State, when, as the Chinese say, “the mandate of heaven has fallen” and it is only a matter of time before the old regime must yield. Revolutions are great fun during their early days. (Despite the violence, there is an extraordinary exhilaration to them) Then food runs short, there is disorder, travel is disrupted, the economy grinds to a halt, and there is a longing for a return to a sense of order.

It is one thing for the people of a country to reject a leader. It is another thing entirely for a foreign nation to invade, particularly under false pretenses. The USA has been meddling in Egyptian business by supporting Mubarak for 30+years. Suddenly pushing him to acknowledge the will of his people is meddling? To be honest, I think that Egyptians probably understand more about freedom and democracy than Americans do, since it has been Egyptians who have been suffering under a dictatorship and right now it is Egyptians who are fighting and dying in the streets for their freedom
It blows my mind that USA gets away by saying Egyptians only know Sharia Law and Theocracy. Umm, no, Egypt has been under a secular dictatorship. They know nothing except US-backed secular tyranny. Still, the fact that they are fighting valiantly for freedom and democracy gives me hope that they will indeed get their freedom and will cherish it. They will come to value it more than most Americans, I’m guessing.
Unlike other nations in the region, Egyptians are not aggressive; Cairo’s foreign policy itself is built on the very fact that its diplomats are often at the forefront of goodwill missions, engaged in peace conferences or acting as mediators in long-standing conflicts.

And finally on a very personal note: When I came back home to India I saw a sign that captured the source of my "energy" during my Egyptian adventure. The sign said, "What you are is God's gift to you. What you do with your life is your gift to God!" For me, Egypt was an environment for imbibing, learning, discovering. I am immensely proud of that. Cross cultures do touch lives in amazing, positive ways! I hope and pray for peace to once again bring sunshine to the Egyptian lives soon.

The warmth of Jodhpur

Bishnoi (Rajasthan India)

If I had gone back to the Thar desert with a production / filming crew then I’d probably have stayed in a real village and unearthed genuine gems. Not to say Bishnoi is not a real village, they try very hard to portray the real life in a hamlet. But because this particular village was so focused on tourism I missed the earthiness. Am glad the other 39Bishnoi villages in India go about their daily lives without attracting the tourists! I was so not impressed by the number of tourists that were loitering about in this village as if strolling in their very own backyard. I was glad I was here just for the day.

The huts are a piece of art. Beautifully decorated with hand drawings on the exterior walls, old kitchen utensils hung over the clay oven fireplace adding another dimension of yore. Clean and nicely spread out, the walkabout had me reflecting over the shyness I witnessed from the women living inside the huts. They rarely stepped out in front of strangers, would curiously peek thru their fairy sized windows. I attempted to talk to them, they’d giggle and hide behind the clay walls but never afforded me answer.

In 1730 CE, 363 women had their heads cut off as the first "tree huggers" in recorded history. Bishnoi means the number 29 in Hindi, referring to the 29 principles by which their caste as farmers ethically conducts itself. Two of the rules require that each caste member is compelled to care for trees; the other is that they care for all animals. In 1730 the then Maharaja Abhay Singh, ruler of Jodhpur sent out his woodsmen to cut down trees to feed the palace fires. They arrived on Bishnoi lands with the intent on cutting down their trees. One by one the women of the village sat at the foot of a tree and wrapped her body and arms around the tree trunks. When the Maharaja was informed of this he instructed his troops to cut off their heads if they did not get out of the way; hence the massacre. The first head to roll was that of Amrita Devi; her martyrdom set the example for the remaining 362 women who were to die that day.

Only afterwards, apparently in a fit of guilt, did the Maharaja apologize and decree that forevermore trees on Bishnoi lands would remain safe. I goggled this for better understanding and I was glad to see that the Bishnoi sacrifice of the past is remembered and has become a part of a modern day movement to protect trees (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chipko_movement).

Bishnoi is the one place where opium is legit. The ritual of making opium tea is a practice of the community that goes back a thousand years. It is used on ceremonial occasions and maybe a little in the morning and evening. Opium use is against the law in India; but in yet another of our wonderful contradictions, an exception is made for a number of castes in Rajasthan where tradition trumps law. I happily had a little of this elixir and understand its addiction.

As part of the Bishnoi safari, we also visited a local potter who learned his skills as the hereditary function of his caste. He explained that all his forefathers were potters as would be his son. The pottery is still done in the traditional way. Clay is thrown onto a 100 kg wheel which is pivoted at the center and spun, using a stick, to a high speed. The weight of the wheel maintains the momentum required to turn several pieces from a single large piece of clay. I was privileged to be invited by them to try my hand at the wheel and was thrilled to bits that my first attempt turned out rather well or perhaps it was beginners luck:) I was so enamored by my own creation and can appreciate how Dali or Bresson would have felt with their creations!

On reaching the hotel I carefully wrapped this pot to ensure its safe journey homewards. The bubble burst when I opened the packet on reaching home and saw the shattered pieces of mud lying inside the wrappings. Damn Jet airways!

Christmas sweets and cakes

Christmas in Malaysia